Beatrice Ruzzon’s “The Harmony of Wine” Experience
Drop 01 | Season 02
Mugaritz is known to push the boundaries of fine dining, and sommelier Beatrice Ruzzon perfectly complements the vibe with her many tattoos and piercings. And like the restaurant, the more you get to know her, the more you uncover her magic. For Drop 01, she curates 12 amazing wines and tracks, crafting a seamless blend of flavor and rhythm. Join us for a candid chat with Beatrice, where wine, music, and creativity intersect.
Beatrice Ruzzon’s love for wine runs deep: “It saved my life.”
Wine and music are at the heart and soul of this talented sommelier. Inspired by a TV show, she even wrote her thesis in school on how music impacts the taste of wine. And it’s this level of curiosity that she brings to what is not only her job but her life’s passion. A rising star in the industry, she has already spent time curating wine for the world’s top restaurants, and she’s heading to Sweden to take on her next challenge.
Season 02 | Drop 01 Interview | Jan 01, 2024
Playlist’s Matt Friesen: You wrote your thesis about how music impacts the way one experiences wine. Could you share how you came up with the idea and what you discovered along the way?
Beatrice Ruzzon: Well, I come from a family of artists and have always been surrounded by music. And I consider myself lucky to have grown up in that environment. The idea for the paper was inspired by the Italian TV show Le Iene (The Hyena) which ran an experiment with wine experts and proved that wine treated with sound was more harmonious and balanced.
I was so inspired, that I wanted to study it myself. So I demonstrated how the physical vibration of music impacts every step of production, from the vineyard to the glass.
MF: Music has the ability to resonate on an emotional level, and I feel like wine has the same ability. If you drink a beautiful wine, it can just hit you in so many ways.
BR: Wine is like music you drink, while music is like wine you listen to.
Wine, words, & music by Beatrice Ruzzon
Louis Latour’s
Marsannay Rouge 2019
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 1
I have a secret: I always associate people with grape varieties to help myself interpret their character.
One time someone asked me, “Bea, if you were a grape variety, which one would you be?”
No doubts, man. Pinot Noir. Burgundy Pinot Noir.
Sophisticated and touchy, bitchy and difficult, friend of only the most challenging and extreme situations in which to live, with a suffered past, with ancient and classic tastes, distrustful, cat-like, very slender and snappy, but at the same time romantic, elegant, sexy, provocative yet innocent, persuasive, seductive, passionate, and unique.
And so, this is me, this is Pinot Noir for me, these are us, me and Pinot.
“Je veux de l’amour, de la joie, de la bonne humeur
Ce n’est pas votre argent qui fera mon bonheur
Moi je veux crever la main sur le cœur
Allons ensemble, découvrir ma liberté
Oubliez donc tous vos clichés
Bienvenue dans ma réalité”
And because I have it in my heart and soul, I don’t need “des bijoux de chez Chanel, je n'en veux pas!”
MF: If you could compare your journey as a sommelier to a music album, which one would it be and why?
BR: Oh! I loved my time at Mugaritz. It had many highs and lows - a complete experience.
I’m a precise person and demand professionalism from the people around me. So, I would describe my journey as classical music, or better yet, the violin music of Paganini, yeah.
Very intense and very passionate, but a little bit suffered as well.
J. Christopher’s
Dundee Hills Pinot Noir Unfiltered Volcanique 2018
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 2
Ok, we have a Pinot Noir. This grape variety is characterized by low levels of tannins, low to medium alcohol content, and small red fruit flav…..ok ok, stop!
We are in Willamette Valley, Oregon, baby! And this macho, alien Pinot Noir, with its muscle blueberry dress, wants to say to us:
“Yo, listen up here’s a story
About a little guy
That lives in a blue world
And all day and all night
And everything he sees is just blue
Like him inside and outside
Blue his house
With a blue little window
And a blue corvette
And everything is blue for him
And himself and everybody around
Cause he ain’t got nobody to listen to
I’m blue
Da ba dee da ba di
Da ba dee da ba di”
What energy!
What vibes!
Long live the freedom to be!
MF: We met while you were working at Mugartiz, one of the world’s top restaurants, and known to be a little quirky. Can you share an experience you had at the restaurant that embodies its spirit?
BR: Chef Luis Andoni is different than other Michelin-star chefs I’ve worked with. He is open-minded with the people around him, and it takes an open mind to create this type of experience and weird concept. One of the best things that happened to me was to get to know Chef because he is such a good person.
Mugartiz was also the first Michelin-star restaurant that let me work with my piercings and tattoos. They recognize that the experience you create is more important than how you look.
A solo diner once shared with me that Mugaritz is more than just a restaurant; it's a transformative experience. He realized that life should have less judgment, not only for food and wine but also for life and people. A 360-degree open-minded perspective.
Fontanafredda’s
Barolo DOCG 2015
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 3
The classic style of Barolo: earthy, bloody, emetic, iron sensations (I am anemic, so I feel iron a lot - because I lack it and my body wants it!), bloody orange with super-ripe black and red cherries and plum, underwood, autumn dried leaves, dried roses in potpourri, black chocolate and leather, pine resin, dried mushrooms, black pepper, cloves, cocoa, complex and deep.
A melancholy, autumnal wine that warms the soul and heart, especially for an Italian woman away from home, as me.
For a classical, iconic Italian wine, a “Barolo”-like song, melancholic and traditional, that talks about the history of Italy.
As an Italian who lives outside her homeland, thanks to this match I believe I have found a way to feel at home anywhere in the world.
Thank you, God, for wine, music, and family!
“Fra due minuti è quasi giorno, è quasi casa, è quasi amore!” with this combo, for me.
MF: Can you recall a time when a particular piece of music completely transformed your perception of a wine?
BR: Yes! I was at a bar drinking a sweet red wine from the northern part of Italy, and they were playing heavy metal. I remember how the two completely different concepts clashed. You have this sweet red wine with its velvety embrace against this hard, heavy music. They were very, very bad together.
Music can transform the characteristics of food and wine, both positive and negative. I focused on the positive characteristics of the 12 wines in this drop. It was so fun to pair them. It was super.
MF: I loved seeing you post stories on Instagram while you were pairing. You were dancing and looked like you were really into it!
We throw events where people pair wine with us, and sometimes dancing breaks out. It was fun to see it happen on your side too.
Diamantakos’
Naoussa 2019
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 4
It’s true that Xinomavro is similar to Nebbiolo!
Even if, in my opinion, it’s a little bit dense, liquor-forward, large in terms of ripeness of the aromas, and it has some vegetal notes that remind me of the tomato fruit and leaves, too.
Dry, full body, metallic high acidity, with an incredible salinity that talks about the island! The same aroma that we found on the nose, here you are in the mouth. High levels of iodate tannins, with medium alcohol and quite a long finish, with this salty sensation to the gums, adorable!
Who says that red, structured wines aren’t suitable for summer? A fool!
It’s logical that if you drink a Xinomavro under a 40°C sunny day on the beach, you might not feel so good, but in my opinion, it’s the same if you drink a super cold glass of Champagne on the mountain at -20°C on New Year’s Eve. Don’t you think?
Drink this wine wherever you want, while listening to this song, please!
MF: If you could travel back in time to any music era with a bottle of wine from today, where would you go and what wine would you bring?
BR: I would take a Burgundy Pinot Noir for sure. And I’m thinking of Italy in the 70s.
I love jazz and blues. They’re very relaxing. I like to listen to them driving home after a long night of service at the restaurant because those genres give me life when I’m mentally and physically exhausted.
But if I am choosing one wine and an era it’s going to be a Pinot Noir from Burgundy in the 70s here in Italy.
Graham Beck’s
Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2017
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 5
Pronounced nose of almond flowers, nutty, golden apple, apricot, white crispy peach, wet stone, complex.
High acidity.
Same intensity and aromas on the nose.
Long.
Pronounced in the mouth, too.
Outstanding.
It talks about an amazing vintage, in which the grapes are perfectly ripe.
Extremely elegant and creamy on the finish.
The power of the body, even if Blanc de Blancs plays very well with the powerful voice and energy that transmits Shakira with this song. When she says “Jambo”, this simple word compliments the almond flowers and the nuttiness of this wine. Amazing Combo (be careful: not Congo!).
MF: How does wine influence your approach to life?
BR: Oh! That’s an amazing question. Thank you for asking.
Wine isn’t just a passion. It’s not just a profession for me. It is my life. It seems like a paradox, because wine is associated with alcohol and addiction, but wine saved my life.
I was dangerously sick and wine helped me recover. It helps me understand the things that I can’t understand without. It’s the key that opens many doors.
For example, when I meet someone I use grape varieties to help me understand them. That way I can read the situation and understand how to behave with them.
In a way, wine helps guide my life.
Garzón’s
Albariño Reserva 2021
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 6
“Wow! It seems an SB!”
These were the words when I tasted it for the first time, in the company of my lovely mom. Completely different from the lean body, fresh profile of Bierzo’s Albariños that I tasted daily while working at Mugaritz. Pronounced vegetal notes of sage, white blossom, and rosemary, plus a little bit of asparagus too, characterize the nose and palate. Concentrate, with medium acidity and a savory, long finish. A very good example of the new world white wines! W Uruguay! Perhaps suitable for vegans, baby!!
The peaceful freedom of this song, in my opinion, embraces the soul of Uruguay. The sounds of the drums caress the soul together with the wild but delicate vegetal notes of this amazing Albariño!
The musical pairing thrilled me!
Emozionata!
So grateful for these sensations!
An explosion of peace, energy, freedom, and equality!
MF: If you could host a dinner party with any music icon, who would it be, and what wine would you serve?
BR: For sure Fabrizio D'Andrea. One of the most important cantautorial men of Italy.
And I would serve him…. okay, I am thinking.
Oh my god, this is quite hard! But I think San Giovese of Emilia Romagna. Yes. Okay!
Flowers Vineyards & Winery’s
Rosé 2018
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 7
Who says that rosé wines aren’t wine?
Ok, great, try this pairing, now, please!
This energetic hip-hop song talks about respect. Respect that we have to give to this amazing category of wine suitable for all moments. Starting with the ’70 starters like vol au vent, to sophisticated fish and crustaceous dishes such as crabs, scallops, red Mazara’s shrimp, and, why not, caviar?
Is that not a California dream?
Perfectly balanced between the crispy freshness of this lovely small red fruit profile (such as wild strawberries and red sour cherry candies). Perhaps very delightful to the nose with a high acidity that makes your palate juicy and lovely sweet-like.
A perfect and elegant example of very good California White Zinfandel.
MF: What's one wine myth you frequently encounter that you'd love to set straight??
BR: So as in life, I would have to say preconceived conceptions. Like red wine with meat and white wine with fish. Like someone who dresses well is a good person. Or someone who goes to church is devoted to god. Or someone who doesn’t have time to go to church is a bad person.
Pre-conceived conceptions. You know?
In fact, I love the first sequence at Mugartiz. An oyster in champagne in a martini glass. Amazing!
Or in another sequence octopus or fish, or better, anything that lives in the sea paired with two wines - one red and one white. Amazing.
Breaking preconceptions is the heart of Mugartiz. You can go deeper into the essence of everything.
MF: I love that and fully agree with you. It's so easy to get stuck in preconceived ideas and not understand that there's an entire experience that you're missing out on if you just break free. And not just wine, I think of that in my life, in my businesses, in everything.
I think that's an important lesson. I love that you said that.
BR: You can apply this to all aspects of life. If you have a preconception about a person you will never have a chance to discover them.
Marjan Simčič’s
Teodor Bianco BRDA - 2020
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 8
Medium gold to the eyes, medium intensity of olives, breamy profile, wet stones, very mineral and sulfur-like, and a ripe golden apple that needs to be discovered behind all the previous descriptors. Orange peel as well. Umami. Nuts, too, and walnut wood. Woody wine. Seeds of apple, too, so quite tannic.
Very dry and bodied to the mouth, even if the high saltiness can keep it vertical on the palate. Suuuuper high acidity, very very gastronomic!
Creamy finish on the palate.
Usually, in our mind, white wine is designed as lean, thin, vertical, and slim.
Ok, but this wine says “Roxanne, you don’t have to wear that dress tonight!”
This wine stings the nose just as this piece of music stings the ear!
This is what Slovenia wants to say!
MF: You've curated the wine and music for Season 02 Drop 01 - can you share the inspiration behind a few of your favorite pairings?
BR: Okay. So, of course, the South African sparkling wine from Graham Beck, the Blanc de Blancs paired with the Waka Waka from Shakira. Amazing.
I felt the wine getting wider and wider and then powerful and bright on the palate and the nose as Shakira sang. For me, it was amazing. You just want to dance! I think this one was my favorite.
I also loved Lustau with The Coffee Song by Frank Sinatra. It made me feel relaxed and even embraced by the wine. A bit of a Christmas atmosphere. And I love Christmas!
And finally, the Pinto Noir paired with ZAZ - Je Veux. I feel similar to Pinot Noir and I love that this song says that, despite being a famous singer, ZAZ cares more about peace and love. She and I share the same philosophy.
These are my three favorite matches. Wine playlist. Music matching.
Tempos Vega Sicilia’s
Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2019
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 9
Pronounced aromas of Zagara, spices, Botrytis cinerea (noble rot) spectrum. Cinnamon, white pepper, gingerbread, saffron.
Very sexy, elegant, and pronounced nose!
Sweet, medium plus intensity of apricot, nectarine, sweet spice, long, delicate even if present. High acidity balances all. Full body even if it is subtle and delicate.
Outstanding.
I have the little bottle N° 07918.
What can I say to our ancestors, if they could see the modern world in which we live?
That it is shallow, maybe?
If traditions could talk, what would they say?
With this modern, delicate Oremus Tokaji Wine, I think that they would say that we are “far from shallow” because this wine is the modern voice of the ancient times, of the traditions.
Hungary.
Both wine and music transmit fullness, peace and sweet power! Lovely.
MF: Imagine creating a wine festival with live music. Which artists would headline, and what wines would you pair with their performances?
BR: If I was to host my own festival I would for sure have Die Antwoord. Do you know them? They are a crazy band from South Africa. One of my favorite tracks is called Pitbull Terrier and they talk about the fact that they are two brothers.
Yolandi is the girl, and she has a strange haircut, and she’s tiny like me. While her brother, Ninja, is tall and full of tattoos.
And if I was to have a crazy party, for sure I would invite Die Antwoord.
And for the wine, I would choose a vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from Australia. I like a metallic Sauvignon Blanc. Very very crazy.
Maybe in a very small bottle to make it easy to serve.
MF: Ha! I love how you’re thinking about the entire experience.
Lustau’s
Alamcenista Amontillado del Puerto
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 10
A pronounced Cuban cigar that talks about the second part of the aging, so in contact with oxygen, even if the aromas of yeasts by Velo de flor are present as well. Dried apricots, raisins, toasted, roasted coffee grains.
Dry, pronounced, full mouthfeel, intense, powerful, elegant, coherent with the nose, high alcohol and acidity. Incredibly long.
Outstanding.
Elegant, sophisticated, even if brilliant and funny; that’s Frank Sinatra to me!
Funky, even if classic.
The Coffee Wine, with the Coffee Song.
Wine not?
MF: What major shifts are you seeing in consumer preferences and behaviors in the wine market, particularly among younger generations?
BR: I’ve noticed a growing trend that younger kids, even as young as 17, are spending more time traveling to learn about the history of wine production. They travel to wine regions and stay on the vineyards and try traditional food. I’m seeing quite a bit of this in Italy.
While I was in Spain I traveled to the Bierzo region to try the white wines of the region and taste Galacian octocups. In my opinion, we want too much, too fast. But we’re starting to understand that we need to discover origins.
MF: Interesting, so you’re saying it’s more than just drinking wine, it’s understanding the people and traditions behind it. That’s really cool. That’s a trend I can get behind.
BR: In the end, we are talking about wine, and sometimes people forget that wine comes from grapes, and the grape is mostly cultivated by old men and comes from strong traditions. And that’s important.
I don’t like how some people are all “I’m the sommelier, so I know…". No. You are just the sommelier. You need to be the voice of wine. Because nature is the protagonist. Not you.
MF: So you’re the wine evangelist!
BR: I am honored to be.
Penfolds’
Max’s Chardonnay 2018
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 11
Pale lemon color, vibrant, with lovely green hints. On the nose, medium intensity of green apple, white blossom, lemon juice, and peel, but also a little bit of a butter biscuit-like touch, given by the brief time spent in the barrel. It is citrusy and green, crispy and funny. To the palate, it seems to start off-dry, gentle even if very high in acidity, with an agile palate that asks for the second sip, and third, fourth, …..
It is a surprise of paradoxes this incredible Australian Chardonnay: structured even if super fresh, elegant even if funny, citrusy even with its adorable and sexy touch of new American oak, with a considerable alcoholic content (13.5 %).
When I was a child, the first things that I heard about Australia were things like “That country is a jungle!”, “There are a lot of dangerous insects and animals!”, and so on.
Ok, this wine, of course, is a “jungle”, but of sensations and funny things: citrusy even full, mineral even woody, so, a jungle!
Drinking it while listening to this amazing song, is one of the most relaxing and energizing (of course, at the same time!) things to do in the evening, after your day, man!
It’s also the perfect bottle to open at a rock festival because of its screw-cap closure!
Welcome to the Jungle, baby!
“Wine is like music you drink, while music is like wine you listen to.”
MF: Finally, if you had to describe your wine and music curation style using only three words, what would they be?
BR: Humble, Identity, Essence.
Pale lemon colour, with golden hints.
Medium aromas of butterscotch, almond and nuts, peanut, vanilla, yellow lily and pollens, propolis, with a more ripe profile of fruits that talk about stone fruit (sweet apricot) and perhaps unripe-banana.
Full body, with the same aromas detected to the nose, supported by a pleasure sapidity and spiciness, that remind white pepper, at the end of the sip, very very long.
El Enemigo’s
Chardonnay 2020
Beatrice’s Picks | Wine 12
This wine is a cuddle, enveloping and delicate, yet present and powerful. Like this song, which I don’t want to translate (instead, I invite you to do it, to “disfrutar mejor las experiencìa”) to arouse curiosity. Because to be pampered, you need conscious and curious abandonment. Enjoy your relax. Disfruta de tu relax.
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Thanks for Reading
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